Keeping Splits at Bay: Secrets of Gently Handling your Hair

[Teacherbear]

Split Ends Busters!!!

Here is the advice I have to offer.

There are several other aspects of hair-handling that you might not even pay attention to, that can make a big difference in the quality of your hair/ends. Become aware of how you are handling your hair (or not handling it). Awareness is the first step.

Day-to-day handling is where most of the damage occurs.

Is your hair long enough to get caught under coat collars or under shoulder straps (for Messenger bags, back pack, etc)? If so, move your hair before putting on that bag.

Does your hair whip in the wind? Wind knots up hair. Knots damage length. Damaged length causes more splits. Eventually the damaged length splits. Restrain your hair when you are going to be in a lot of wind.

Washing your hair. Do you pile your hair on top of your head when you shampoo? This creates MANY opportunities for splits. Shampoo really only needs to be applied to your roots. That's where the grease/oil is. Personally, I condition the length of my hair, apply shampoo to my scalp (down to ears), rinse, then apply conditioner again, rinse. This is called CWC (Condition Wash Condition). All the while, the length of my hair just hangs down my back.

When you dry your hair, do you scrub your scalp with a towel? It feels great, but it will rip, strip, pop, snap and fry your hair in no time! Many of us use some sort of a turbie type towel/turban for drying our hair. Others put a towel on their back and let the hair drip onto the towel.

Do you blow dry your hair? The heat and the wind created by the blowfryer (no that isn't a typo) really damages hair, too. Any heat styling tool can potentially damage hair. If you feel you must use them, keep the temperature low and exposure time to your hair short.

How often do you shampoo? Regardless of HOW you shampoo, how OFTEN do you do it? Many of us have found that 2-3 shampooings per week is sufficient. It takes a few weeks to train your scalp to have fewer washings, but it helps protect the ends. Not everyone has success with fewer shampooings, though.

Do you use conditioner or a cream rinse when you shampoo? My personal belief is, if you want long hair you need to condition it EVERY time you shampoo. If nothing else, it helps detangle my hair. You also might consider using a leave in conditioner, especially one that helps detangle (and gives “slip”).

You can oil the length of your hair daily. Many long hairs do this. They put a small drop in the palm of their hand, rub their hands together and lightly apply the oil to the ends only of the hair. There is an abundance of oils that you can use, some are quite exotic. Extra virgin olive oil (EVOO) is probably the most common, but there is a long list of oils everyone has tried and ones that each person likes/doesn’t like.

After you've shampooed, when/how do you brush/comb your hair? Generally, brushing wet hair is bad for the hair. Hair is most delicate when wet. Brushing tends to stretch the strands. Stretching the strands puts wear and tear, which causes damage, which causes splits.

If you comb your hair, then what type of comb do you use? Does your comb have rough seams and burrs? They catch, scrape and rip hair in nothin' flat! I only use combs that are hand-cut (saw-cut) from one piece of plastic, as opposed to one that is poured into a mold and popped out. There is a DRAMATIC difference in the feel of the hand-cut comb vs. the molded comb. Some people have the best success with finger-combing (literally using their fingers only for coming their hair).

When you brush or comb your hair, whether it is wet or dry you need to always begin brushing/combing at the ends. Go up about 3-4 inches, brush/comb from there to the ends, move up some more. Continue the process. Never rip through knots. Treat your hair like antique lace.

What about those existing splits! To trim splits (or to cut hair) you need a good pair of HAIR scissors. You can buy some at Sally's. They come in ALL price ranges. Whatever you do, use these scissors ONLY for hair. Using scissors for anything else will damage the edge, which will cut the hair poorly, which will cause splits. Then, trim the split, above the split. Cut the split perpendicularly to the hair. Think of the capital letter T . The upright part of the letter is the hair, the cross bar is the scissors.

My personal belief is that an al- over trim (of so many inches) will not take care of a split end problem. Many splits and damage occur above the last inch or so of hair. If your hair is so split that the splits can be seen by a person standing 3 feet away from you, then, yes an overall trim will benefit you. Otherwise, work on how you are handling your hair and trimming off individually damaged hairs.

If you feel you “have” to get an overall trim, then get a 1/8 to ¼ inch trim. Seriously! That little amount can make a world of difference in how your hair feels. Trust me, I’ve gotten 3 inch trims that feel no better than 1/8 inch trims (except the 3 incher FELT shorter and made me sad). I go to a barber shop to get the really short trims, and it costs next to nothing! I like that!

When you begin trimming splits, it can seem a daunting task. Many people notice “more splits” when they begin trimming them away. I personally think this is because you are more aware of them and not that there are more. Hang in there.

Where should you trim the splits? I prefer to do it right here in front of my computer, with the lights off, as long as I’m on a page with white back ground. This really helps the splits stand out. My second favorite place is outside in indirect sunlight. I also think my splits are “plumper” if I trim them a few hours after I’ve washed my hair. I think the water stays in the split, plumps it up and makes it easier to see.

If I trim splits for more than a few minutes, I call it a Search and Destroy Mission (S&D). I figure I’m on a mission to get rid of the buggers . . . . so it deserved its own name! LOL



If your ends still feel awful after you’ve been treating them gently, then you might need to use some sort of a clarifier (shampoo, rinse, conditioner). That's another long thread! LOL There are several ways to do this.

You also might consider deep conditioning your hair periodically. Hot oil treatments can help, also. There are some in depth conversations on how/when/where/why etc on these topics, so I won't address them right now.

Well, I guess that's all of my sage advice, for now . . . .

Good luck and welcome!

[Igor]

Oh wow Teacherbear!
I love it! Great guide!!
Also, you might want to give you nails a going over, so they’re short and smooth. Just think of how much you use your hands in your hair- especially when it’s wet and fragile.
Even a tiny tear in your nails will do damage!
I keep a fine nail file at my computer to remind myself to smooth my nails every day

[Rhiannon]

Originally Posted by Teacherbear

I prefer to do it right here in front of my computer, with the lights off, as long as I’m on a page with white back ground. This really helps the splits stand out. My second favorite place is outside in indirect sunlight. I also think my splits are “plumper” if I trim them a few hours after I’ve washed my hair. I think the water stays in the split, plumps it up and makes it easier to see.

Fantastic ideas on when to trim splits, thanks.

I just wish 2-3 weekly shampoos worked for me.
My body chemistry has really changed and I have
oily hair and skin. By day three I have about 1" of
hair at the scalp that is obviously oily.

CO definately doesn't work but I am getting good
results with CWC. Hopefully I will have a break soon
when I can stay home alot and give my hair a
shampoo rest to see if I can stretch it out further.

Great advice Teacherbear!


Hugs, Rhiannon

[sneakybea]

It sure made me aware of potential hair splitting situations!
I also like Igor's advice about smooth fingernails; I also make sure I style my hair before putting on my rings (another opportunity for hair snagging!).
Does anyone have any suggestions what to do about nails that break in the shower? This happens to me not a lot, but from time to time, and the nails catch on my hair something awful!
Again, great article!
Kim B.

[sneakybea]

It sure made me aware of potential hair splitting situations!
I also like Igor's advice about smooth fingernails; I also make sure I style my hair before putting on my rings (another opportunity for hair snagging!).
Does anyone have any suggestions what to do about nails that break in the shower? This happens to me not a lot, but from time to time, and the nails catch on my hair something awful!
Again, great article!
Kim B.

[nastasska]

Absolutely spiffing article What is your scissor recomendation any particular brand.I have been using dressmaking scissors now I think I really ought to get a decent pair

[Teacherbear]

<bumb> When the server was changed/updated, some of the articles, etc were "lost". So here is this one on split ends.

[wildmane]

Hello, Im curious, isn't long hair suppose to have split ends?? Unless, I understand that a person who has smooth or fine hair with long hair may not have any split ends. But medium and coarse, not sure? So, my question is: Is it really possible for longer than BS to be more than 75% split ends free?

[Ava]

Thank you Teacherbear

[melisanda]

Originally Posted by wildmane

Hello, Im curious, isn't long hair suppose to have split ends?? Unless, I understand that a person who has smooth or fine hair with long hair may not have any split ends. But medium and coarse, not sure? So, my question is: Is it really possible for longer than BS to be more than 75% split ends free?

I think fine hair is more prone to splits than coarse.And yes,I think it is possible to have long hair and very few split ends (25%split ends sounds like a lot to me-I can't stand so many splits in my hair )

[wildmane]

I bet you r right. Thanks Melisanda.

[heidi w.]

It's a myth to think that long hair is required to have split ends; however, split ends are a part of the deal of growing long hair.

Those of us who want smooth hair that detangles easily dust our hair on a fairly regular basis to remove splits throughout the length. Removing splits helps improve shine (because roughness is dull), keep at bay any future splits or damage that may occur as a result of healthy hair rubbing up against hair that is split or about to split (little white dots that bend at 90 degrees).

I have approximately 53" of hair (as measured from the forehead hairline), at the top of my calves, and I guarantee, my hair is not 25% splits.

There are other things to help prevent splits such as learning to detangle slowly from the bottom up, perhaps using a plastic ball tipped brush with bristles widely spaced apart or a wide toothed comb such that the outer layers of hair are organized vertically before pressing into the full thickness & depth of hair, using vinegar rinses to help bind the cuticle creating a flatter & tighter cuticle.

It's true that texture of one's hair has some say so as to how easily or less easily hair might split, but no matter, most people's hair does eventually split, a little bit, even with the best care. Naturally, the oldest hair, the hair on the ends is most prone to damage as typically it has a tendency to be the driest (being that it's located so far away from scalp hair and most don't know yet about oiling or boar bristle brushing to improve moisture to the tips). The ends also tend to be a little thinner in thickness when compared, say, to the hair in the middle or the crown hair (for example, a braid becomes narrow at the bottom versus the top of the braid), and because of the fewer number of hairs and resulting lack of thickness, the bulk of the hair can't help to protect individual strands from possible stress resulting from the detangling process.

Just some things to consider when learning to care for hair at longer lengths. With dusting, quality products and tools, and knowledge of techniques surrounding proper detangling and washing, air drying & not stressing hair while wet, oiling hair length...all these concepts assist with keeping splits to a minimum, dramatically so.

So, no, it is not normal that long hair of any length is 25% splits. That percentage would reflect someone not knowing -- yet -- how to care for their hair.

[exclusively di]

My hair is 44 inches long, hasn't been cut, trimmed, dusted or otherwise length altered in more than 12 years. I had experienced several months of serious unwelcome/unexpected life changes, some of which were even unrelated 13 years ago. My body's reaction to the stress was to shed. I started with bs length hair. I ended with almost no hair. However, new hair began growing immediately, (white, I was basically a chestnut sort of color with white at the temples). So, my hair, which has gone back to mostly the chestnut color, except around my face, has probably less than 5% split ends. It is super fine, like baby hair. I do wear it up most of the time. I love updos. Chignons, french braids, all kinds of twists, and those white streaks show up in my twists and braids and loop around and I get so many comments! People think I use a piece. The back is a different color completely than the front, it is fun. Anyway, I oil, EVOO, and Monoi oh how I LOVE that stuff! For ALL of me. MMMHMMM. So, I am concurring ladies, take care of your hair, you don't have to have splits, oh, and I HAVE to shampoo every other day, I need to every day, but don't because I just really don't have time, I have very oily hair and skin. I NEVER shampoo the length, NEVER! I do hot oil in the length periodically too, that is usually when I do the olive oil. Everything tbear taught up there is right on, my hair is the proof, with no cutting because there is nothing to cut.

Thanks for the great article



8/8/04 Since I posted this, I began COing. I no longer have to clean my hair every day or every other day. I do so 2X a week now under normal curcumstances. What a change that made! My ends are as healthy as ever, I still oil the length, usually with Monoi, and I still wear it contained all the time, but the roots are SO much healthier that the length and ends can't help but benenfit from the CO regemen.

Thanks again for the super article, and just thought I'd throw in another to those I'd already thrown in.

[smiles]

Teacherbear!!! i found splits on my hair... this is after a year of no-splits.. and the splits were on almost all my long grey hairs... wonder why greys were the only ones with spilts..

i sure knew where to come looking for.... your article is very thorough... i found three mistakes that i'm making.

- i have left my hair loose at work, for a long time now and last week i drove my bike with my hair left loose, because hair was wet. :hitting self with hammer::

- i normally use a soft cotton towel, maybe thats not the proper towel, i guess. i started using a soft knit tshirt from today onwards.. found that this absorbs the water from my hair quicker too.

- not using proper conditioners inspite of having so many...

thanks so much for the article. you ROCK!

Originally Posted by Teacherbear

Split Ends Busters!!!

Does your hair whip in the wind? Wind knots up hair. Knots damage length. Damaged length causes more splits. Eventually the damaged length splits. Restrain your hair when you are going to be in a lot of wind.

When you dry your hair, do you scrub your scalp with a towel? It feels great, but it will rip, strip, pop, snap and fry your hair in no time! Many of us use some sort of a turbie type towel/turban for drying our hair. Others put a towel on their back and let the hair drip onto the towel.

Do you use conditioner or a cream rinse when you shampoo? My personal belief is, if you want long hair you need to condition it EVERY time you shampoo. If nothing else, it helps detangle my hair. You also might consider using a leave in conditioner, especially one that helps detangle (and gives “slip”).

Good luck and welcome!

[akwill823]

Teacherbear,

Thanks so much for writing this =) *can't believe I've just now stumbled across it*

~ Amy